There’s something oddly comforting about food centric films. Namely because, well…food often makes everything better, and media about it is usually a safer territory than most. (With the exception of The Menu, which is still one of my favorite recent horror flicks anyway.) And adding even more to the layers of warm happy feelings? Movies about grandmas. Of course, combining the two is a potential recipe for pure serotonin.
Nonnas, directed by Stephen Chbosky, promises just that experience based on the title alone. Based on a true story, Vince Vaughn stars as Joe, an Italian American man who is struggling to come to terms with recently losing his beloved mother. Realizing he’s been in a bit of a rut, he uses the insurance money she leaves him to purchase a restaurant on Staten Island. His inspiration? The pure joy he felt as a child when his nonna (grandma) cooked for him, leading him to have the brilliant plan to hire Italian grandmothers as the restaurant’s chefs. Unfortunately, the road to opening a successful restaurant is a bumpy one, as Joe discovers his inexperience in the industry may lead to failure before it has a chance to truly take off.
I won’t lie, this film is as sticky sweet as a Hallmark holiday special. Thankfully, what saves it from becoming unbearable are the talented cast including Lorraine Bracco, Susan Sarandon, Thalia Shire, and Joe Manganiello. Great actors who give earnest and sincere performances such as these can sell even the most saccharine material for me. While Vaughn gave a subdued and tender performance as the lead, the nonnas were the real scene stealers of this film, each bringing their own flavor of genuine warmth and sass to the combo. I also appreciated Joe Manganeillo’s performance as Bruno, Joe’s best friend, and how the film was unafraid to show an earnest friendship between two adult men.
While as I’ve said, the film teeters on schmaltzy, and has some rather safe and predictable emotional beats, the overall product works very well for what it is. Not to mention, it’s rather pleasant to look at with plenty of atmospheric establishing shots, and of course lots and lots of food porn. I will warn you from experience that this is a terrible movie to watch on an empty stomach with nothing tasty to eat in the house.
Is Nonnas the most complex film out there? No. But like a good Italian Sunday gravy, you’re not necessarily looking for complexity so much as comfort, balance, and nostalgia. And those are just the qualities Nonnas brings to the table with generous portions.
